If you’ve driven past Bari you’ll understand why it has become a place to avoid for us. Crazy, busy roads, an industrial antithesis to our tranquil Puglia. Yet an invite to a friend’s show gave us an excuse to re-visit the centre, the old town and the seafront. Real characters, real fishermen, real ladies making orecchiette in the lanes. And an amazing seafood lunch. If you get a chance, make a visit.